Laser distance meter hack

I’m finally hacked a cheap laser distance meter from Amazon. Arduino Mini is taking control. Someone else tried before but gave up on this. Mine looks the same like the KKMOON but has no brand marking.

Laser distance meter under hack.

Bench setup for development.

Taking the laser distance meter apart.

Battery box and backside label.

Init screen.

Operational screen.

Laser distance meter open.

Main board front.

Keyboard markings.

While there are no outside markings, the inside reveals the manufacturer – SNDWAY. Seems to be an SW-A40.

Optic board marking.

Main board back with two missing chips.

20 thoughts on “Laser distance meter hack

  1. It’s so lucky when my Laser Rangefinder was almost like yours (mine was SW-M40). Due to the different, can you help me point out where are the 3 SPI pins in my board? Thank you very much!
    This is the picture of the board
    Again, thank you very much! So lucky when I got the laser module same as yours.

    • Looks similar. Can you provide a picture from back side of this board?
      In case you have a oscilloscope probe each pin on the LCD connector to find the SPI signals.

    • Your first picture, the LCD connector pins counting left to right would be:
      5 = Clock CLK
      6 = Data DTA
      8 = Chip Select CS

      I hope the LCD pinout is the same as mine. If it doesn’t work for you than very probably the pinout is different, even when it looks equal.

        • I don’t wonder. There are obviously so many board variants existing of these laser distance meters that very probably the LCD type varies also. All my working units have an LCD that reads DFG0071 and a date on the back side.

          • ok, I’ll study my circuit better.
            Another quick question: you say “Before you connect any hardware to the LCD bus of the laser distance meter make sure it runs at 3V signal levels!” this is true, but a regular 5 V arduino can read properly a 3V digital signal, right? You fry the telemeter only if you send 5V signal to it.
            Thank you

          • 5V Arduino board might be 3V compatible for reading. But why taking a risk?

  2. Hi! After reading your article I bought the same range finder you own (on Amazon). I disassembled it, I did all three soldering (data, cs, clock) but it doesn’t print anything similar to your to my serial port. I noticed a slight different lcd pinout as you can see in my photos. I’m using a 5V (it only read signals) arduino with GND connected to – of batteries. If necessary I also have this 3V board
    This are the pictures
    What’s wrong? Please help me, I need to read measure remotely

    • You already noticed a different LCD pinout. So maybe the LCD is different, so is the internal controller and hence the LCD protocol. My code works with LCD’s marked DFG0071 on the backside. Anything else is probably different and not believed to work. This project and code is a proof of concept. To make it work with other devices requires additional efforts in reverse engineering.

  3. Hello,
    this is Stefan from hackaday. Unfortunately I do not have my old rangefinder any more.
    I bought an SNDWay later, but got the same device as oregon and Khoi Nguyen Phan.
    It seems that there are a handful companys in china building cloned devices, because they look identically.

    The Pins 5 and 6 of the display connector are connected to Pin 30 and 31 of the STM32 µC. This are RX and TX of USART1 of the microcontroller. So it could be that the display is driven by a uart interface.
    @Michael, do you know if the DFG0071 display is connected to a hardware SPI bus?

    • On the first device I made, the LCD is connected to PB6,PB7 and PB8 which seems to be also an USART. But protocol is clearly SPI.

      • Thanks for your reply. I will check the protocol and give feedback as soon as possible.

        PS. Can someone correct my typing errors 😉

  4. Another interesting product could be the LS1- Laser Range finder.
    I bought one for the purpose of utilizing it with arduino.
    I tried to identify the “main ic” but had no luck.
    I guess it’s a STM32 most likely there will be no accessible serial interface on this device too.. 🙁

    So maybe we have to intercept the display signal as well.
    Here are some photos of the disassembly:

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